Repairable Atomisers, Support
DotShell
14
Aug
Aug
Contents
This is the support page for the DotShell. The page will be updated gradually, as more feedback and inquiries keep coming in.
51 thoughts on “DotShell”
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I’ve been using it for about half a year now and faced the problem that it constantly flows
yesterday filled half the tank almost did not smoke and poured out the whole tank
I normally put cotton wool, and people with experience have given me the same problem
Is there any solution or seals?
Hi and thank you for posting a comment about this issue!
This is certainly not a common issue for the DotShell.
Leaking can be related either with unsuccessful wicking or with non air-sealed tank section.
It might be useful for you to check the wicking tips of the manual http://www.atmizoo.com/support/dotshell-manual-en/ and also note the following:
You should trim exactly at the outer perimeter of the deck (not more than that) so that the cotton legs fill the deck channels all the way.
Volume of cotton legs should be enough so they they stand properly just behind the juice slots and prevent flooding, even after cotton gets soaked and saturated.
Please check the attached photos with two builds as examples, where you will notice that the cotton should reach until the end of the two deck channels.
On the second photo you will notice that the cotton seems a bit collapsed, however pls note it’s through a 3mm core and again the legs reach out to the further end of the channels.
When it comes to tank seal, please check the manual here https://www.atmizoo.com/support/dotshell-manual-en/ , *O-rings and Gaskets Graph* and make sure about the following:
– The 6 x 1 o-ring should be there in its place, also not damaged
– The Refill Cover is not damaged and covers the refill hole as it should
– The Chimney Gasket is not damaged / cut / missing a piece at any point
If anything is missing or you are not sure about the mint condition of any of the above seals, please replace the above with the spare ones.
You can find those in the bag of spares that lies under the EVA foam of the tin box that your device came in.
If you need any further support please reach out to us through support@atmizoo.com for more personalized support on this matter.
Hello,
I have both dotshell SS and Gold versions, nevertheless, I’ve been struggling a LOT with the gold version. I put the same build on both .45 ohms but seems like the gold version lowers the output power after 1 sec. I have cleaned it, disassemble it and the problem just keeps going on and on. No matter what I do.
Today I used the MTL pin from the SS version and works fine! Not sure what is the problem with the gold version, I will really appreciate your help because it’s been stressful to not have it working properly. Any idea?
Thanks in advance
Hello,
Many thanks for posting about your issue!
Overall, issues related with inconsistent power output or unstable resistance value, are usually caused due to bad or unstable electric contact.
Usual points to inspect are:
1. The threads of the positive tube and corresponding threads of the positive post. They should be clean, with any dirt or burrs removed. Try brushing the threads with a toothbrush, using silver polishing cream or mixture of vinegar with baking soda.
2. The electric contact point (negative and positive) between the electric pairs [DotShell’s afc base (negative) + dotAIO outer (negative) spring loaded contact] and [DotShell’s positive tube (either 4mm or 2mm air hole diameter) + dotAIO inner (positive) spring loaded contact].
Please check the positive and negative floating (spring loaded) pole inside the tank nest of the dotAIO, exactly at the point where the bottom side (poles) of the DotShell will sit in order to make contact.
Try to fiddle a bit with a small screwdriver by pushing and letting the springs bounce back (always making sure you won’t scratch or destroy the contacts) in order to test if the springs of the spring loaded contacts work ok, also triggering the bounce action a couple of times.
It has happened with some other cases that the spring loaded contacts of the dotAIO had balanced at a lower position and did not bounce back properly until forced to unstick and do so.
You can verify if the issue is as described above if you test this DotShell inside another dotAIO, in order to narrow down the cause. This case can also happen because sometimes there is a slight difference in height between the two positive tubes of the DotShell. The spring of the dotAIO contact might have balanced at the lower position , not being able to make proper contact when you install the 2mm positive tube.
Please check the above and get back to us to support@atmizoo.com if you need further support!
Hi,
I recently purchased a dotshell last month. And I use a prebuild coil. Am I wrong when I press the power button and the dotshell is getting hot? Also the flavouring affect. When I recoil using the coil master, I find there is a red light in one of the screw fastening places. Is that an electric short? Help me please. I’m new to recoiling. I use occ for many for many long time. Sorry i use google translate because my english is bad. Thanks
Hi 🙂
Many thanks for reaching out to us and congrats for trying to rebuild yourself. You will eventually find out that this is the best way to go regarding vaping!
Please send us some details to support@atmizoo.com about the coil and the build you are trying to achieve. Coil type, material, resistance etc.
Then we will go from there and try to find out what is going on.
yes , the insulators are positioned correctly , its just the positive post screw just doesnt screo to anything and the tension of the coil lifts up the post making bad contact constantly
Hi, thank you for your response! The symptoms sound typical for when an insulator is missing or positioned upside down.
Please reach out to our support team @ support@atmizoo.com, or even better via our facebook page @ atmizoo so we can exchange some messages with you and understand better what the issue is. The facebook page messenger might be a better way for you to send us some photos or short video with the issue 🙂 We will be more than glad to help out via the above channels.
Hello i just bough the dotshell and evdrything was just wonderful til today. I was changing the coil and the positive insulator ring CAME out, from that moment i just put It back and It just doesnt read with none of my mods, also the positive pole moves completely free like the screw only holds the coil and doesnt screw on anything and cannot maintain the Contact i think.
Many thanks for reaching out to us about this!
Please check if both insulators, the positive tube insulator and the positive post insulator are in place and also positioned correctly. You may check the parts names and assembly order from the manual of the DotShell and specifically the parts graph.
Hello just bought the Dotshell but can’t seem to get the right build,any recommendations please on the best builds for this deck. All my builds don’t seem to work plus the fire button flashes white once I’ve put a build in. Many thanks
Hi 🙂 Thank you for posting this – hope I can help you with the following:
There are many builds you can make with equal success. From tight mtl to open 4mm dL, 0.35 ohm to 1.8ohm, simple round kanthal to exotic coils of 2.5mm core or even 3.0mm core if positioned with attention.
It’s all a matter of your willingness to play 😉 I would suggest starting your experiments with simple round wire and go from there to anything (exotic, clapton etc.)
Just notice – the higher the core ID of the coil, the more cautious you need to be with vertical coil placement in order to avoid short if the coil touches deck or chimney inner walls accidentally.
Two factors you should have in mind when you DL with the DotShell, are the dotAIO settings and the relatively limited building space of the DotShell (reasonably enough due to its small size).
For DL vaping you can use various builds, as long as you use ni80 wire for quick ramp up, this isn’t a requirement for the DotShell though -more for the Dotaio and the four power settings available.
Also, we highly recommend you use a 2.5mm inner coil diameter, because as said before, bigger ones need extra attention not to touch the top of the chimney (thus causing short).
That being said, it is up to you whether you use a simple wire 4 wraps 24ga or an exotic coil 5 wraps mini alien, it should be around 0.4Ω but it has to do with your preference on vape temperature.
Regarding cotton, again it’s a matter of personal preference, just pick out a brand that is highly absorebent like Cotton Bacon or Cloud 9. Avoid Texas or Kendo which are more rda oriented 🙂
Last thing to note, as DL vaping can def use a higher wicking rate, you can facilitate wicking by trimming your cotton in a triangle – pyramid shape (vertically) as per photo here https://ibb.co/8jXCsJ3
Hello. I’m happy owner of dotshell. I have one problem I can’t solve. What is correct way to take off reservoir (for cleaning) and avoid damaging it. Thanks for reply.
Hi and thanks for reaching out!
You just use a core guide and cross it through Chimney top part, then push until out of the tank. You need to grip the tank firmly with one hand and use the core guide (coiling rod) as a pushing medium with the other hand. Cross the core guide through the top of the Chimney from above and push gently. It will eventually come off.
I purchased a DotShell.
Everything is OK, but the 510 connector.
When I screw down the deck with the 510 connecter and separate it when i’m done with build and wick,
it stucked and can’t just screw out with my bare hands.
I barely unscrewed the deck from the connecter by using long nose and the deck is scratched.
Is there any solution for it?
Thank for your reply.
Well, of course I know about the logic of torque.
But, I swear to god that I never over tightened the two parts.
I just softly tightened both parts and connected them to my box mod for build
(never over tightened either)
and it just got stucked…
Should I hold the deck with my fingers when I set the coil by tightening the screws so that it does not tighten more than I intened??
Hi, thank you for your response!
Perhaps it was not your fault, but a small burr or particle stuck among the threads that made them jam.
It is indeed better if you hold the deck when tightening the deck screws, as this will prevent any extra torque that would screw the deck further on top of the 510 base by mistake 🙂
Hi and thanks a lot for sending this!
The set “aux base – deck of DotShell” should not be over tightened when placed on top of any 510 connection. Or else the threadings will get stuck with each other (it’s how the threadings work, simple torque 🙂 ).
In order to disassemble if stuck, you will just need rubber gloves or apply cautiously a set of pliers on the stuck parts over a soft cloth
Hello,
my chimney and reservoir are stacked together, I can’t pull them apart. I’ve tried applied pressure to the chimney with tweezers from the top of the reservior but doesn’t work. I’m looking for ways to solve this issue. Have been using dotshell heavily for about a week without separating the chimney and reservoir, just took out the chimney and reservoir together for recoiling only.
Thanks.
took it out with a chopstick haha. Thanks alot Tasos!
Hi, thank you for reaching out! You just use a core guide and cross it through Chimney top part, then push until out of the tank. You need to grip the tank firmly with one hand and use the core guide (coiling rod) as a pushing medium with the other hand. Cross the core guide through the top of the Chimney from above and push gently. It will eventually come off.
For any further help or any future inquiry please reach out to us @ support@atmizoo.com, we will be more than happy to help out!
hello I bought dot aio along with dotshell and there was a coil I inserted cotton wool moistened inserted into dot aio and my tank leaked
sorry for my english i use google translate
I do not know what to do
Thank you for reaching out!
It might be useful for you to check the wicking tips of the manual http://www.atmizoo.com/support/dotshell-manual-en/ and also note the following:
– You should trim exactly at the outer perimeter of the deck (not more than that) so that the cotton legs fill the deck channels all the way.
– Volume of cotton legs should be enough so they they stand properly under the juice slots and prevent flooding, even after cotton gets soaked and saturated.