Mechanical Mods, Support
Guppy
Nov
Contents
1. Getting Started
The Guppy is a 100% rebuildable, high performance mechanical mod of moderate complexity. It is suitable for experienced vapers who possess a good understanding of the nature of mechanical mods and electric power transfer, but it is also simple and easy enough to be used by intermediate vapers who have the desire to learn the ins-and-outs of their vaping gear in order to get the most out of it.
Mech mods are sophisticated, enthusiast-oriented vaping tools. By nature, a mechanical mod requires:
- Proper handling.
- Frequent maintenance.
Proper handling guidelines are specific to each device. Thanks to its uni-tube design, the Guppy is a mod that is very easy to use without requiring constant attention. To help you get up to speed with your new Guppy, we have written up a quick reference of 8 Important Tips, which also includes some more general, essential information about mech mods and vaping gear:
#1: Watch out when refilling your tanks!
The switch assembly of the Guppy is fully liquid-sealed from the top, but you still need to be careful not to let any amount of e-liquid leak around and into the area of the mod’s button.
#2: Wrap coils that your batteries can handle and don’t go cheap on batteries.
Don’t go below 1 Ohm unless your battery is happy about it. Even good IMR batteries will at some point get stressed / damaged with use. Replace your batteries every 6 months and don’t trust labels blindly – a label is easy to fake. 16340, 14500 and 18350 batteries should not be used with sub-ohm resistances, with the exception of very good, high-discharge 18350 batteries, which are still borderline for sub-ohm vaping.
Don’t go cheap with batteries and chargers and always watch out for expensive fakes. Keep at least one protected battery aside for testing. Do not trust heavily short-circuited batteries even if they appear to work. Don’t power your mods with anything else than 3.7V batteries.
16340 and 18350 batteries have a higher internal resistance by nature. For the best possible performance, use only high-drain IMR 16340 and 18350 batteries from sources that you trust. Choose a highly respected brand, like AW, MNKE or Panasonic.
#3: Eliminate voltage drop on your mod.
To ensure that no power gets lost on the way to your atomizer, you need to:
- Always adjust the pole screw of the Guppy high enough to ensure good contact between your mod and your atomizer!
- Keep the spring shiny clean and, if necessary, stretch it back to shape.
#4: Invest in tools and backup equipment.
Measuring your resistances is critical to prevent damage and accidents from short circuits. Protected batteries and resettable fuses are also a must for testing. Always test that new coil with a protected battery or fuse, even if you get a correct open-circuit resistance measurement. Putting power through it may reveal an entirely different story than what your ohm-meter tells you. Keep a few spare cartos around for testing – they may not vape as much as a 1 Ohm coil, but they will tell you if your mod fires. And, last but not least, get a 510-to-510 voltage measurement tool.
#5: Invest in knowledge.
Before carrying out voltage drop measurements, learn some basic facts about voltage drop and batteries.
#6: Watch what you connect on top.
Atomizers with badly designed poles and off-shelf center post screws won’t cut it, even if they cost $200. The positive pole of your atomizer should be machined smoothly. Using off-shelf screws as electrical contacts is asking for trouble: Rough atomizer poles will quickly tear the plating on your mods’ pole screws and may cause overheating. Wire ends should be properly stabilized / fixed on properly designed contacts, especially when using resistance wire that heats up. Unstable wire ends will cause voltage drop and misfires.
#7: Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you.
It’s not bulletproof just because it’s mech or expensive. A Guppy can handle hard drops when assembled just fine (especially with a Bumper Ring on), but there is a limit. If you are clumsy, go for something heavier!
Always remember to lock your mod when carrying it in a pocket – the #1 cause for contact damage is overheating / arcing caused by accidental, repeated switch activations at a very low force (for example when forgetting the mod unlocked in a pocket, or when sitting on it by accident).
#8: Maintain the switch contacts of your mods.
All make-break (push-button) contacts on mech mods must be routinely cleaned to remove dust and moisture. If e-liquid gets into the switch assembly, disassemble the switch and clean the contacts right away!
Remember to re-fresh the silver-plating of your mod’s contacts once in a while! With use, the silver plating layer on them will start to wear off – don’t let that happen! Take the contacts of all your mods to your local jeweller’s and ask for a thick layer of pure silver at least every 5-6 months.
If left unmaintained for a long time, or if dust enters the switch assembly, the contacts of your mod will start to overheat and eventually get damaged / tarnished. For safety reasons, the switch is designed to fail at sustained temperatures above 150*C, to prevent heat from reaching the battery.
Remember that all make-break switches must be operated above a minimum force to ensure a long life. The button should be pressed with a force equivalent to 500-700 grams, which is still quite low. Use a kitchen scale to get an idea of how much that is.
2. Assembly / Disassembly Guide
3. Notes on Switch Use and Maintenance
4. Basic Facts about Voltage Drop and Batteries
5. Basic Facts about Sub-Ohm Vaping
Although the Guppy has been designed to handle sub-ohm resistances, current-generation 16340 IMR batteries are not suitable for use with sub-ohm loads.
6. Troubleshooting
- The device is making a rattling sound.
- The switch is misfiring / The contacts inside the switch are tarnished.
- The connector gets un-screwed along with the atomizer.
- Voltage drop issues.
Rattling Sound
The rattling sound that you hear when shaking the device is perfectly normal!
If you disassemble the device, you will notice that the moving contact rod that’s mounted on the axle of the switch is designed to “float” in its slot. The “seesaw” shape of this contact, along with its free-floating design help distribute the applied force evenly among the fixed hexagonal contacts, which gives the device its distinct, touch-sensitive firing ability.
Switch Misfires
If liquid penetrates the switch assembly, it can cause heavy arcing inside the switch, which will quickly cause the contacts to overheat and tarnish (turn black).
The contacts may also overheat if dirt, dust, or machining leftovers are preventing the switch contacts from touching each other firmly. A quick inspection of the switch around the contacts will quickly reveal the cause of misfires. In most cases, simply disassembling the switch and giving all components a thorough clean with alcohol should be enough.
If the contacts are tarnished, they should be cleaned with a cream suitable for silver-plated jewellery or “silver wipes”. Do not scrape or sand the contacts to clean them, as this will damage the silver-plating layer on them.
Keep in mind that misfires may not be directly related to the switch – for example, bad contact between the atomizer pole and the mod’s pole screw is a common cause for misfires. Intermittent heavy voltage drop issues may also be perceived as misfires, so it’s definitely a good idea to also check the Troubleshooting section dedicated to voltage drop issues, especially if the contacts of your mod appear to be shiny clean.
The connector gets un-screwed along with the atomizer
To prevent the connector from coming off along with your atomizers:
1) Don’t remove the o-ring mounted on the bottom side of the 510 connector.
2) Always tighten the 510 connector firmly on the switch housing with the help of a small coin.
Important: Some rebuildable atomizers, even from reputable manufacturers, come with oversized, non-standard 510 male connectors, sometimes almost 0.1mm larger than the size defined by the spec.
Voltage drop issues
Some voltage drop is normal, depending on the capabilities of the battery that you use. Excessive voltage drop can be traced to 4 possible causes:
1) The pole adjustment screw is not making good contact with the atomizer.
2) The spring is heavily oxidized or or not pressing against the battery firmly.
3) Your atomizer resistance is very low and/or you use a stressed or low-quality battery.
4) The switch is damaged or dirty.
1) Always adjust the pole screw when exchanging atomizers! Unscrew it as much as needed to ensure good contact with your atomizer.
2) The spring is made of brass and may slowly deform with use, or get oxidized (brass springs only). When oxidized, there will be a considerable contact resistance which will be translated into voltage loss under normal operating conditions. Always keep the spring shiny clean and in good shape. If necessary, stretch it to bring it back to shape.
3) When vaping with a very low atomizer resistance (high current) and use a low quality or stressed battery (abnormally high internal battery resistance), there will be an excessive voltage drop in the battery itself, which you will not be able to measure in open circuit conditions. Keep in mind that a stressed battery under load will always consume some of its own power, which will translate into a reduced voltage on your load. Read more here.
4) Following the industry-standard at these power levels, the contacts are plated with a thick layer of silver, which possesses self-cleaning properties at mid/high currents. The result is that, even with heavy use, the contact areas will remain shiny clean, even when the areas around them start to oxidize. It is very unlikely that the switch will be the cause of voltage loss, unless i) the plating is scratched, or ii) the contacts don’t touch each other properly. When the contacts don’t press against each other well, the contacts may become resistive, which will result in misfires and / or voltage drop. This can only happen if there is dirt or tiny delrin particles inside the switch, or if you use a very low force when pressing the button (for example, if you accidentally sit on the mod for a while). If you open the switch and the contact surfaces are shiny clean (shinier than the area around them) it means that the switch is perfectly fine. If the contacts are tarnished (black), you will need to give the switch a good clean and if necessary have the contacts re-plated.
Hi !
I’m trying to use the In’Ax cartomizer with the guppy but it doesn’t work. Please have you got some reports of a such issue ? Is the pole screw of the mod fits for the In’Ax slot ?
Thank you.
Sorry I don’t correctly explain my problem in English. Actually the InAx is perfectly screwed on the 510 connector but no power comes in. The carto slots seems to touch the pole screw but the contact surface is maybe to small, due to the large Phillips form ?
Hello!
Please make sure that you have unscrewed the pole screw far enough so that it touches the male pole of the InAx. It is not a matter of size of contact surface, no need to worry for this. You are probably not making contact there, so this should resolve your issue.
To make sure that the pole screw makes contact with the male pole of the InAx, don’t hesitate to unscrew further just to check function, even if it does not sit flush. You can make fine adjustment to achieve flush connection afterwards 😉
Hello! Thank you for getting in touch about this issue!
If I understand well, your InAx does not screw on the 510 connector of your Guppy? If this is correct, we have not heard of such an issue before. Is your InAx 510 threading standard sized, according to specs? Does it screw on other mods you have?
Bonjour,
Je ne comprends pas, lorsque j’appuie sur le bouton de mon switch sur la position “on”, normalement le contact se fait et je peux vaper mais si rien ne se passe je suis obligé de chercher avec le pouce pour faire le contact et souvent je dois le tourner un peu vers la droite ou un peu vers la gauche le bouton pour faire contact.
Hi,
I don’t understand.
When I press the button on my switch on the “on” position, normally the contact is ok and I can smoke but if nothing happens I have to turn the button to make contact and I often have to turn a little to the right or a little to the left button to make contact.
Bonjour,
Je n’arrive toujours pas à régler mon problème…
j’ai l’impression que la petite barre dans le switch à du mal à toucher les 2 partie en argent. Je pense que mon switch a un défaut de fabrication, et je vais devoir en racheter un autre.
J’hésite à acheter le Internal Switch Assembly (HP Edition)
hello,
I still did not solve my problem …
I feel that the small bar in the switch to hard to touch the 2 silver part. I think my switch has a manufacturing defect, and I’ll have to buy another.
I hesitate to purchase the Internal Switch Assembly (HP Edition)
Hello Pieters,
Please see my previous comment 😉
You may return the device via registered post for a free inspection before ordering a new switch. If it is indeed a manufacturing defect, we will make up for your shipping costs as well. In any case, we will update you as soon as we receive everything.
hello,
Yes I have already dismantled pour clean , I have instructions suiviles But the problem continue. I tried available in repositioning the button with the right alignment but Whenever I Obliged to remove it pour reposition it , I have the impression That The button moves slowly … I have problem from the beginning, is consultant forums what I went Account what it was not normal .
Thank you for your help
Hello 😉
This is quite strange! Although every device is thoroughly checked in function before put in the box, there is always a chance that something might have escaped our attention or appeared afterwards. I suggest that you send the device back to us for a free inspection and replacement of parts if indeed there is a defect 😉 The return address is:
Atmizone
Operations Branch – RnD laboratory
Agias Varvaras 109
Daphne 17235
Greece
We will let you know as soon as we receive everything and have a first look!
Hello Pieters,
thank you very much for contacting us about your issue.
Have you ever disassembled the switch until now? If yes, please make sure that you have placed the button with the correct orientation on the top of the acetal axle. To do this, please follow the instructions of the assembly video very carefully.
Important question:Do your hear the clicking sound of the ball bearing when trying to put the switch in the “on” position? If yes, is your button aligned with the vertical line when doing this? If your button clicks *and* is active with the orientation other than vertical, then you just have to remove and reassemble the button with the correct alignment. Hope this helps!
Hello,
I want to buy a ΣΟΦΙΑ by Leo
I would like to know if the coils should I choose
Thank you for your help…
Set up :
Mod Méca :
Modèle : Guppy
Réf : SS-IM (304 SS, shot-blasted Ice-Matte)
Marque : Atmizoo
Drip tip :
Modèle : Ray
Réf : SS-IM (SS, shot-blasted Ice-Matte)
Taille : short
Marque : Atmizoo
Tank :
Modèle : Bayou
R̩f : SS-IM (SS, shot-blasted Ice-Matte) Р35 mm
Marque : Atmizoo
Accus :
Mod̬le : AW IMR 16340 550mAh Р3.7V
Marque : AW
Hello and thank you for your reply,
I decided to buy sophia by leo + ΣΟΦΙΑ LONGER UPPER BODY + CERAMIC RIBBON 1.1 OHM COILS
My set up works very well with the Guppy / Bayou
I am very satisfied with your work
good luck
Hi – you can experiment with any build / resistance you like as long as the 16340 battery can handle it.
At resistances over 1.3 Ohm, you will be able to get very decent performance out of the 16340.
Estoy muy contento con el conjunto es espectacular me gustan las cosas sencillas y bien hechas y este conjunto sinduda lo es… Gracias por todo y el servicio de diez.. Para que todo fuera perfecto tendrias que vender los cartomizadores y seria el conjunto diez Gupyy+Bayou+Ray+cartomizador seria lo mas muchas gracias al equipo…..
Hola Jose Maria me podrias hechar un cable con el guppy? donde puedo comprar los cartomizadores y de que clase?, las baterias tampoco las encuentro valdrian IMR 16340 3.7V 600 MAH ó TRUSTFIRE 16340 3,7 V 880 MAH?, el ray hay que comprarlo aparte?, y los extras del guppy tampoco los entiendo muy bien extra springs, spare parts, bumper rings, mi ingles… muchas gracias
Hey.
I love my new Guppy + Bayou! thank you Atmizoo 🙂
I have a question though…
Despite your advice i got it running on unprotected batteries with safer chemistry plus a safety fuse. Everytng fits (yay!) inside the tube but the spring it’s definitely very tightened and it needs a lot of pressure for the bottom cap to hide completely below the tube.
Do you think there is some risk on doing this? Would you not reccomend this set up because of some reason?
Cheers guys keep the good work! 😉
Hi Fran,
Have you tried to see if the fuse you got works without the spring on?
The extra pressure might cause cause faster damage to the plating of the battery contact, but other than that, the only obvious problem is the force needed to close the cap.
Also, the spring will inevitably get stressed, which means that you might have to stretch it a bit if you decide to remove the fuse later on.
You can definitely use the mod even if the cap doesn’t hide below the tube. The only problem then is that the mod won’t be able to stand easily, though.
Hi there, received my Guppy + Bayou the other day and absolutely love it!
I do have one question/issue I would like clarified. When I turn my switch from “on” counter clockwise to “off”, the switch clicks and locks into place. However when i turn my switch to “off” clockwise it doesn’t click and lock into place. Is this suppose to happen or should it lock in both directions?
Thanks, and again love the device, love your website, overall shopping experience and extremely fast delivery
Rasmus
Ahh, thanks for the quick reply. That makes sense 🙂
Hi Rasmus,
Current uni-tube switches were produced in two *simultaneous* batches:
Some switches are manufactured with 2 “on” and 2 “off” positions (0*, 90* 180*, 270*), but most switches do not have the 270* lock position.
The design with 2 “on” positions and 1 “off” position will be soon the de-facto standard for all Labs and Guppies.
The missing lock position:
i) is more optimal from a production / assembly process perspective and
ii) imitates the behaviour of Roller switches (1 “on”, 2 “off” positions), where the 3 ‘clicks’ in sequence give tactile information about the lock state of the switch (first “click” after the 180* turn is “on”).
Love my guppy! However, I find that when I swap from the Protank 2/3 back to the Bayou atomizer, the Bayou doesn’t connect to the little center post any more. It seems that I have to use a screwdriver to twist it back up. Every. Time.
Am I missing an o-ring under the little center post?
Thanks,
Aron
Hey Aron,
We’ve had a couple reports from Protank users who had issues with their Protanks getting stuck on the connector of the Guppy, but I’m not sure if that’s related. If the Protank has a rough-shaped positive post, it might be screwing down the pole screw of the Guppy, but it should still make proper contact regardless.
In general, Guppy pole screws are tight enough to keep their position when using atomizers with flat, smooth poles. However, if your atomizer has a roughly-cut slotted pole, you will definitely need to readjust the screw every time you remove the atomizer.
Hi, im fairly new to vaping and up untill now have used only VV VW mods, What power / voltage does the dingo / guppy give to the atty IE : 4v , also can you use a kick in a dingo / guppy with the battery size (lenth) in mind, or do you need a roller instead ?.
Love & Kisses, Fatstu xx
Hi there 🙂
All mech devices supply the voltage of the battery almost directly on the atomizer. A fully charged battery is around 4.2v, and the voltage drops as the battery discharges.
Batteries also have an internal resistance which means that the actual voltage supplied by the battery will always be lower than the voltage you measure on the battery under “no load” or “open circuit” conditions. This “voltage drop” on the battery will increase if you use lower resistances. Good high drain IMR batteries have a lower voltage drop under load and are generally preferred when using mech devices for this reason.
For example, a 18350 AW IMR fresh off the charger (4.2v) will actually supply a 2ohm resistance with a voltage slightly higher than 4.0v. A same-type, fully charged 18650 battery might be able to supply up to 4.1v when powering the same load.
The Guppy can’t be “kicked” because it’s a 16340 mod, so the Kick won’t fit. To “kick” a Dingo, you will need a RD-T2 extension.
Received the Guppy + Bayou + Ray … beautiful devices!
One comment I have is that the Guppy gives an extremely airy draw with whatever 19mm cartomizer tank (bayou, evirp, prive, pro-v) or devices like protank 2 is put on it.
Any advice?
Hi Peter,
There is a rubber grommet in the bag of spares supplied with the mod, with an internal diameter ~7-8mm, an external diameter ~16mm and a height close to 1mm.
You can optionally mount that one under the 510 connector 🙂
Can you please explain “the supplied 7/16mm grommet under the connector, instead of the 12×1.5mm o-ring”? Is this the o-ring that sits in the channel on the underside of the Guppy’s 510 plate? Is the 7/16mm grommet supplied with the Guppy or Bayou ?
Hi @Maximac!
That is correct, the Guppy has a very open draw when you use sub-19.5mm tanks on it. This is a characteristic of the connector which is based on the fact that the wicking action in 510d-type RBAs has a high dependency on draw pressure. Choking the draw externally does not allow the atomizer to work with its own optimal draw.
The Roller / Dingo have a rather closed draw in comparison, so the standard connectors made for the Guppy have a much more open air intake.
When the connector is tightened all the way in, the Bayou will choke some of the intake as it sits close to the tube edges. Now, if you align the Bayou channels with the Guppy front and rear stripes, a lot of the draw will be closed depending on where you place your index and thumb fingers as you press the button. That is, at least, the intention of the design – once you become conscious about it, it’s a usable, fun way to control the intake into the Bayou.
Other than that, a permanent way to make the draw tighter is to install the supplied 7/16mm grommet under the connector, instead of the 12×1.5mm o-ring. That grommet will close the air intakes of the connector significantly, providing a much tighter draw!
Try the thumb/index method to control the airflow into the Bayou! It adds a second dimension to vaping since you can alternate between a closed / open intake as you draw! If you get used to it, you’ll love it.